Rome | Italy | The City of History & Mediocre Pizza
Where- Rome, Italy
When- Aug 19-21
Hotel- Hotel Vanity Navona 3/5 stars
Day 6
Upon arrival to Rome train station, there was a massive line awaiting taxis out front so we thought that was the best way to go because we are followers. ROOKIE MOVE. We had a super eager and charismatic aka psychotic cab driver that definitely ripped us off with the price. What should’ve been only about 25 euro for a 10 min drive, he charged us 50 euro because he said it was a “holiday” and his birthday. It was not but we didn’t have any smaller bills. Was able to get him down to 45 euro and he still had the nerve to ask us for a tip. Hey here’s a tip- before you get in your taxi, ask them how much it will be OR make sure they have a meter running.
Checked into our hotel at Vanity Hotel Navona which was on the second floor of a shared building. Nothing special, gave more air bnb feels. We had to use our phone to open the doors, no physical keys at all. It was in a decent location- right by the Piazza Navona. It was a perfect option for maybe a solo traveler OR two people that aren’t planning on spending any time in the room or moving at all whatsoever in the bathroom because it is LIIIIIIITTTTLE.
Since we were a bit early for check in, we dropped our bags and walked along the Tivere River towards the direction of the Vatican. I finally gave in and bought a paper fan from a street vendor cuz your girl was hot. Glanced around the grounds outside of the Vatican- lots of Jesus and Pope fans. Grabbed lunch on the main street that filters up to St. Peter’s Basilica. Had 2 fairly flat pizzas, some wine and mozzarella (shocker).
We walked to our family’s hotel at Albergo which was directly in front of the Pantheon with sickeningly good views from the roof deck bar. Had a couple spritz and green olives on the roof while admiring the views from above.
Had dinner reservations at Grazie and Graziella which felt like it was in another state, it was so out of the way! Felt more authentic though to be in a quiet neighborhood outside of the hustle and bustle of Rome center.
· Tons of wine, fried artichoke and focaccia for starters.
· Between us, we shared our main courses so we could try a bit of each. I got another carbonara which was good but didn’t quite live up to the dish in Florence, this one had good flavor but was a little thicker and less creamy, Lori’s dish that I forget the name of consisted of red wine, onions and I believe mushroom, it reminded me of a Marsala dish but if you substitute red wine for the Marsala wine, very tasty and probably the best of the 3. Bob got Amatriciana, a delicious red sauce, onion and bacon pasta dish.
· At the end of the meal we got complimentary shots of an Italian liquor that we didn’t really know what it was but served us lollipops with it lol, tasted kinda like root beer, a lot of people weren’t fans so Bob had to make sure the extra 4-5 shots didn’t go to waste. He was fully supported on the walk to the taxi.
· Ordering cabs from the outskirts was a bit of an ordeal but our waiter was incredibly helpful and was on the phone for 10-15 minutes making sure we got picked up.
Decided to have the cabs bring us to Trevi Fountain as it was close enough to walk back to the hotel from there. Fountain was beautiful and probably best to see at night with the lights although for this reason it was a bit of a madhouse with the amount of crowds. Legend has it, that if you throw a coin with your right hand over your left shoulder into the fountain, you’ll have good luck. We got some good pictures sitting in front of it, however, whilst mid picture, someone decided to choose violence and hit me in the chest with a coin. There is photo evidence. We also drank from the lovers fountain meaning we will be in luv fur-ev-er. <3
Most of the group went back to the hotel after gelato and the Trevi Fountain, but the young gals and Bob got a night cap of rose and olives at a bar. I go so feral for green olives.
Walked back to the hotel and luckily our phones weren’t dead so we weren’t locked out of the hotel.
Day 7
Since our hotel didn’t have breakfast, we grabbed a quick bite and coffees off the beaten path. We got 2 cappuccinos, 2 sweets, a juice, 1 sandwich all for 10 euro! What a bargain!
We met the rest of the crew at our colosseum meeting spot and began our tour with guide named Augostino- he was the best. A lifetime of knowledge on the Roman Forum and Colosseum. It was a full day tour and we were thoroughly impressed. We were starved when we finished so we grabbed yet again, another pizza. When in Rome, am I right? We sat next to two couples from the USA. Enjoyed peronis and leffe beers, fried stuffed olives and a salame pizza.
After walking all day (15 miles) in the blazing heat, I was irritable and needed/deserved a nap. We made the walk all the way back to the hotel to chill, but not after stopping in the Trinity College Irish Pub for Guinness and Magners, naturally. Grabbed a bottle of rosé from the corner store to take back. We drank it on our little terrace then took off for dinner.
Walked over the bridge to Trastevere, a different neighborhood of Rome, haggled with the street vendors buying postcards and calendars. Trastevere was a very lively, happening area with a much younger crowd. Tons of cool bars, live music performers, street vendors selling all sorts of knick knacks. Tried a recommended restaurant from couple we sat next to earlier but decided it wasn’t worth waiting in a line of 45 people. I was entranced by these two pasta aunties making raviolis in their window and were able to get a table on the outside patio immediately at “Pasta e Vino” for dinner. They make their own wine as well so we started off with their Chianti Classico and more buffalo mozzarella, followed by meatballs and spinach ricotta raviolis (we were later told by our driver that according to his culture, if a place has meatballs on the menu this is not a good restaurant). Despite this, we had a great meal and dining experience eavesdropping the Irish Derry girls seated behind us talking about their 4 week long holiday they are in the midst of. Waiter dumped off a bunch of pre packed biscuits that we enjoyed throughout the next few days, thank you good sir.
Stopped in for to-go (asperto?) drinks at a bar in Trastevere and walked through more street vendors and performers on our walk back and eventually more Aperol spritz to-go. Found ourselves back in Piazza Navona singing Taylor Swift to the best of my ability. Most definitely was feeling those drinks the next day.
Day 8
We had hired a private driver to take all 12 of us from Rome to Sorrento with a stop in Pompeii. Holy shit it was 99 degrees this day (which was lovely in the AC van) but when Sir Daniel dropped us at Pompeii, it felt like we were being punished. And punished we were. Our tour was long and started off on a weird foot but thankfully, it ended up getting better. We learned about the city of Pompeii, which was interesting, however, it was hard keeping focused being out in the sun with literally not one lick of shade. I think some of us were ready for divorce after that tour.
Seeing our bus driver Daniel after the 3-hour tour, it was like seeing Santa Clause for the first time. We were SO beyond ready to get back on the bus and rush to our hotel in Sorrento to swim in the pool.
PROS
tons of mind-blowing history to soak up, if you’re into that sort of thing
easy transportation in and out of Rome (aka the only place in Italy that offers one-way trips to/from Boston)
CONS
crowds
annoying mosquitoes in human form trying to sell you shit every turn you take
super expensive and sporadic cab prices
RECAP
Rome wasn’t my favorite last time I came, and it was even less my favorite when I visited this time. But Big Bob had never been, and the Colosseum is a must, so there you have it. The food was just meh. Trastevere and our Colosseum guide were the best part, that is all. Will not be returning unless I have to fly here to get elsewhere in Italy.
